How to Evade Data Disaster

26 smart strategies for backing up your most vital files--and for recovering them if you didn't.

You've heard all the reasons you should back up your data files regularly: One errant click could wipe out a critical document; a virus could munch whole folders; and mechanical problems could destroy your hard drive.

So why do so few people do it? Perhaps because the backup process is confusing and time-consuming, and provides as much immediate gratification as updating your insurance coverage.

Okay, so I can't make backing up your files a thrill. But I can make it easier and faster. In this article I answer some common questions about data backups so you can keep the most important things in your computer--documents, spreadsheets, e-mail addresses, and financial information--safe from data disaster.

But even if you resolve to back up regularly, you may fall off the wagon occasionally. So I've included tips on ways to try to recover your data when you don't have a copy--and that really is a thrill.

Backing Up Data

How often should I back up? How can I make it easy?

>>TIP You should back up your data every day you use your computer. I know that sounds painful, but if you set things up properly, it takes only a minute or two. You can still be out the door before your boss arrives with that last-minute assignment.

You'll most often perform an incremental data backup. While a complete data backup copies every file in the folders that contain documents and other data you create, an incremental one backs up only the files created or changed since your last backup--thus it's much faster.

A good backup program makes it easy to back up your essential documents and files. It allows you to select what you will and won't back up, and lets you schedule complete and incremental data backups.

What program should you use? >>TIP I recommend Stomp's BackUp MyPC. It handles the basics and it's easy to use (for a full review, see "Tools for Trouble-Free Computing").

>>TIP Apps like Iomega's QuickSync back up your data on the fly, as you save it to your hard drive. But if you back up to a CD, you still have to remember to put in the disc in the morning, then remove it to a safe place at night. And any program that works in the background will use some resources and could slow your PC.

There are good arguments for backing up your entire hard drive--not just your data, but your applications and OS as well. But the task is tedious and could incline you to avoid doing any backing up. And you already have copies of your software--the original CD-ROMs. (If you prefer to back up your entire drive, your best bet is to use a drive imaging program, such as PowerQuest's Drive Image.)

What kind of media should I back up to?

>>TIP This one's easy: CD-RWs.

There are lots of good reasons. Compact discs don't cost much, and they're removable, so you can store copies of your data off-site--your best protection against fire, flood, or theft. Rewritable CDs allow you to use the same media over and over again for regular incremental backups. CD-RW drives are fast enough that you won't need a good book every time you back up. And CDs are large enough (at 650MB) that you may be able to fit all your data on one disc.

If you collect many photos or music files, My Documents can outgrow a single CD. But since these files don't change much, you need not back them up regularly. >>TIP Move such files out of the backup folders and archive them on CD-R discs. These are the best option for long-term storage and will ensure that no one overwrites your favorite photos or tunes.

What files should I back up?

>>TIP If you're using Windows 98 or Me, you should back up the My Documents folder, usually located at C:\My Documents. You should also back up the following Windows subfolders (not every Windows installation has all of these folders; if you can't find one, don't worry): All Users, Application Data, Desktop, Favorites, Local Settings, and Start Menu.

>>TIP If you're using Windows 2000 or XP, back up C:\Documents and Settings. This folder contains a subfolder for every user registered for that computer. Each subfolder contains, among other things, a folder called Local Settings (this folder is hidden by default in Windows Explorer, but it should be visible through your backup program's interface). Each Local Settings folder contains three folders that you should not back up: Temporary Internet Files, Temp, and History. You definitely should back up Application Data (the other Local Settings subfolder).

Unfortunately, not all programs store their data in these folders. >>TIP If you're unsure where an app stores its data, go into the program and add a piece of information, such as an address. Then quit the program. Now look for the file, using the Search or Find option in the Start menu.

Search for files modified within the last day. When a file list appears, click the column header labeled Modified or Date Modified. This will show you the most recently changed files on your computer; near the top will be the file that you just changed. If you don't recognize the file name, look at the folder where it's stored; this information is shown to the right. The path will usually include the name of the program used to create the file.

If a program is storing data outside the folders you're backing up, you can include in your backup the file or folder that the program uses, or you can employ the program's customization options to change where the data is stored.

Now that I'm prepared, how do I actually go about creating my backup?

Most backup programs allow you to create jobs--sets of rules that define what should get backed up and how. The programs generally use a Windows Explorer-like interface to enable you to specify the folders and files to be copied.

>>TIP Define two jobs. The first should be a complete data backup that copies the files in essential data folders and overwrites everything already on the CD-RW you're using for the backup. The second job is an incremental data backup that's stored on the free space left on a CD and doesn't overwrite existing data.

You can't reliably back up a file if it's open in another program that may be writing data to it. >>TIP Close all apps that open or save data before backing up.

>>TIP Set aside three CD-RW discs for backups. The first time you use one, do a complete backup. Then, once a day, perform an incremental backup. Every couple of weeks--or when the first CD starts to get full--switch to another disc, starting once again with a complete backup on that day and incremental ones after that. After a couple of weeks with the third disc, go back to the first one. With this system, you'll always have a copy of your most recent work as well as copies of versions as much as six weeks old--just in case the PowerPoint slides you killed last week suddenly become vital again.

Recovering Data

How do I retrieve a single file from my backup?

In 19 years of computer use, I've had one hard drive die. But I can't tell you how many times I've overwritten a vital file. Mechanical problems can't hold a candle to human stupidity. Luckily, if you create backups regularly, restoring a lost file is no more than a minor hassle.

>>TIP Remember, if you do daily backups, you're likely to have several versions of a file. A good backup program like BackUp MyPC will aggregate the contents of all available backups into one file list. You can then find the file in this list and select a version to restore.

I just deleted a file with no backup. Can I get it back?

Be glad you only deleted it. If you had overwritten the file--saving another file with the same name to the same folder--It would probably be gone for good.

>>TIP The number one rule when you want to retrieve a deleted file is: Don't write anything else to your hard drive. The data that makes up a deleted file is still there--temporarily. The system sees the space the data occupies as available, however. The next time you save something, it may replace the deleted file with new data. Don't save or create a file or install a program until the deleted file is restored or you've given up hope.

When you delete a file, Windows moves it to the Recycle Bin. As long as you have not emptied the bin, it's easy to get the file out again. >>TIP Simply double-click the Recycle Bin icon on the desktop, find the file, right-click it, and select Restore.

What can you do if you've already emptied the Recycle Bin? If you act quickly, you may still be able to retrieve the file.

Both Ontrack's SystemSuite and Symantec's Norton Utilities (sold separately and as part of Norton's SystemWorks suite) have tools designed to retrieve files in these situations. >>TIP In SystemSuite, launch the FileUndeleter. In Norton Utilities, use the UnErase Wizard.

>>TIP If you run out and buy one of these packages after deleting a file, don't install the program--it could overwrite the very file you want to restore. Both packages offer a way to run from their CD-ROM to undelete a file.

An important Office file has become corrupted. Can I repair it?

Funny thing about files you use all the time. They sure can get messed up. But even if you don't have the file backed up, all may not be lost.

>>TIP At least two companies sell software for recovering Office data files. Ontrack offers its EasyRecovery FileRepair line of programs, and Recoveronix sells its OfficeRecovery programs. Both companies provide free demonstrations on their sites. The demos don't recover your data, but they do let you see whether the full programs will be able to.

My hard drive suddenly died. What should I do?

Scream. Curse. Wail. Then, if you've got a backup, smile. If you don't, you'll want to return to screaming, cursing, and wailing.

>>TIP If the situation renders your PC inoperative, you'll need to remove the misbehaving drive and attach it as a slave drive to a working system. >>TIP Do not take the preceding step, though, if the drive makes scraping, grinding, or clicking noises. Those alarming sounds indicate physical problems with the hard drive. In that case, shut the drive down immediately and remove it from the system to minimize damage.

>>TIP If you have a recent data backup, the backup program will walk you through the steps of restoring all your data files in one fell swoop. Of course, if you don't have an image of your entire drive, you'll need to reinstall your OS and applications.

>>TIP If you don't have even a data backup, there's still hope. Both Ontrack's EasyRecovery programs and Runtime Software's GetDataBack will attempt to pull files from a bad drive and copy recovered data to another location, such as a second hard drive or a CD-RW disc. Both companies' Web sites offer free demo versions that can show you the likelihood of success in your case.

>>TIP If these emergency programs don't do the job, or if your hard drive is making strange noises, you'll have to decide if it's worth shelling out big bucks for a data retrieval service. A number of companies, including Ontrack, Advanced Data Solutions, and DriveSavers (see full review), offer these services. You can expect to pay anywhere from $95 to $5000 to get your files back---if you can get them back at all.

Guess what? Backups are cheaper.

Lincoln Spector is a PC World contributing editor. See related downloads for more backup utilities.

Features Comparison: Six Programs That Can Save the Day (chart)

Product	List price	What it does
Iomega QuickSync (http://www.iomega.com)	$40	Backs up files in the background while you work, so you never have to remember to do it.
Ontrack EasyRecovery (http://www.ontrack.com)	Personal $179; Professional $489	Copies recovered data off damaged drives. Personal Edition supports DOS, Windows 3.x, 95, 98, and Me. Professional version adds support for Windows 2000, NT, and XP.
Ontrack EasyRecovery FileRepair (http://www.ontrack.com)	Individual programs $129-$379; full suite $749	Programs restore damaged Office data files; a free demo will tell you if a file is salvageable.
Recoveronix OfficeRecovery (http://www.officerecovery.com)	Individual programs $149-$399; full suite $899	Programs restore damaged Office data files; a free demo will tell you if a file is salvageable.
Runtime Software GetDataBack (http://www.runtime.org)	FAT version $69; NTFS version $129	Copies files off corrupted drives. FAT version supports FAT and FAT32 drives (typically Windows 95, 98, and Me systems). NTFS version supports NTFS drives (typically Windows 2000, NT, and XP systems).
Stomp BackUp MyPC (http://www.stompinc.com)	$79	First-rate basic backup program backs up files and folders either completely or incrementally.

Take My Advice: Two Hard Drives Beat Tape

>>TIP I stopped using tapes and Zip drives for backups and started backing up my data to another hard drive. A second hard drive is cheaper when you consider the cost of tapes and Zip disks. And swapping hard drives in an emergency is a snap.

I bought two hard drives with the same capacity; I then installed two mobile mounts in my PC case and connected the drives' IDE cables so the drive in the upper mount is an IDE1 master and the backup drive in the lower mount is an IDE2 master. I use PowerQuest's $50 DriveCopy to copy data from the upper drive to the lower one. I back up at night and in the morning put the backup drive somewhere safe. On that sad day when my regular drive fails, I'll just replace it with my backup drive. --Clifford Ford, supervisory civil engineer, Pasadena, California

>>TIP Use File, Save As to preserve an additional version of the same file under a different name. >>TIP Keep backups of your work files at home, and vice versa, in case of fire or other catastrophe. >>TIP To restore an older file without losing the current version, restore it to an alternate folder.